I try to visit Leonessa (fig. 1), a one thousand-years-old village near the Umbrian mountains, any time I am back in Italy. My family has had a small apartment just outside the historic part of the town and getting back there even for a couple of days is always a special moment for us. 

The Leon D'Oro (figs. 2, 3) is my favorite restaurant in the area where one can enjoy the perfect fettuccine con funghi porcini (fig. 4) or a spectacular plate of