Norcia: Prosciutto, Truffles and Earthquakes

La città sabina di Norcia, Patria di San Benedetto e nota per la sua profonda spiritualità, si trova nella parte più montuosa ed incontaminata dell’Umbria, nell’area della Valnerina. Le testimonianze del suo glorioso passato romano e medievale sono evidenti nelle mura di cinta dalla caratteristica forma a cuore e la sua suddivisione in 8 guaite, che corrisponde al numero delle porte di accesso alla città, che è meta indiscussa di chi ama il contatto con la natura incontaminata, la qualità della vita ed i piaceri della tavola. Nel ‘900 Norcia ha conosciuto una fragorosa caduta ed una straordinaria rinascita. Il declino iniziato dopo il sisma del 1859 proseguì inesorabile fino alla fine della seconda guerra mondiale. La vera rinascita, però, prese il via dalla tragedia del sisma del 1979. La ricostruzione che seguì rappresentò per Norcia un’occasione di sviluppo che la città seppe cogliere al meglio. Il borgo rinacque dalle sue ceneri e da paese a vocazione agricola si trasformò in ricercata meta turistica.  Il devastante terremoto che l’ha colpita nel 2016 è l’ennesima prova di coraggio per questo coraggioso Comune.    

Often linked to black truffles, savory prosciutto, pecorino cheese, and the baby lentils of nearby Castelluccio, Italians now think earthquake, too, when envisioning Norcia. The August 24, 2016 earthquake shook up Norcia, but the October 30 quake the same year caused the major devastation. The Basilica dedicated to Norcia’s beloved St. Benedict (born there in the fifth century), collapsed with only the facade remaining. A heart-rending sight to see on our early-January visit to this Umbrian mountain hill town. San Benedetto stands in the center of the piazza in front of his Basilica with hand upraised and pointing at his church as if to employ visitors to look and ponder the devastation.

I walked the town as my husband, Pino, met with a fellow builder about a restoration project in nearby Todiano. It was a sobering stroll. So much of the town is scaffolded, so many shops closed, businesses moved out to pre-fabs or just shut down. The streets quite empty. As I passed one shop with Norcia t-shirts in the window, I had a thought: perhaps I could make a contribution to the local economy? The owner, Marina, affirmed right away that I had the right idea and proudly showed me t-shirts she’d had made bearing lines of her father’s poetry dedicated to his beloved Norcia. Despite the challenges of post-earthquake life, I felt the good spirits and determination of the norcini everywhere. A couple of t-shirts in my bag, I continued my walk along the scaffolded Norcia alleyways, here and there shops of norcineria open and many an eager shop-keeper inviting me in for a taste of wild boar salami or pecorino cheese with truffles. I stopped in at one. I needed a special gift and decided this would be the place. I could make another small contribution to the Norcia economy while the shop’s enticements would be so appreciated. I continued my stroll and passed a house with a big blue bow hanging on the door. A baby boy had been born. A sign of new life in Norcia.
To assist the norcini in rebuilding their city, many organizations offer the ability to donate online.