Alessandria del Carretto: Secret of the Pollino Mountains

Photos by James W. Arvia Photos by James W. Arvia

Immerso tra la bellezza selvaggia del Parco Nazionale del Pollino, là dove la Calabria incontra la Basilicata, Alessandria del Carretto si erge come una leggenda vivente delle montagne del Sud Italia. Arroccato a oltre 900 metri sul livello del mare, è il borgo più alto del parco—un rifugio di pace dove il tempo sembra fermarsi e l’aria conserva la purezza della natura incontaminata. Conosciuto come “Il Paese Dipinto” per i suoi oltre quaranta murales che raccontano la sua storia e le sue tradizioni, Alessandria del Carretto incanta i visitatori con le sue case in pietra, i panorami che si spingono fino al Mar Ionio e al Golfo di Taranto, e la sua profonda anima culturale.

Qui, antichi rituali continuano a scandire il ritmo della vita. Ogni maggio, la spettacolare Festa dell’Abete celebra la vitalità e il rinnovamento, quando gli abitanti del paese trascinano un maestoso abete bianco dal bosco, in un rito secolare di unità e forza. Ugualmente affascinante è il Carnevale, con le sue enigmatiche maschere dei Połëcënellë Bielle e Brutte—una danza evocativa tra caos e ordine. Dai festival senza tempo come questi alla manifestazione estiva Radicazioni, che celebra la musica popolare e l’arte di strada, Alessandria del Carretto incarna una rara fusione tra la maestosità della natura e il patrimonio vivente. Più che una destinazione, è un’immersione nel passato mitico dell’Italia—un santuario di montagna dove si incontrano tradizione, natura e spirito.

Nestled high in the rugged embrace of the Pollino National Park, where Calabria meets Basilicata, lies a village that feels less like a destination and more like a legend brought to life: Alessandria del Carretto. Perched at over 3,000 feet above sea level, it proudly claims the title of the highest village in the park. This isn't just a town; it’s an oasis of well-being, a place where time slows, and the air is so pure it seems to cleanse the soul.

From its stunning vantage point, the well-maintained, characteristic stone houses gaze out over a lush green landscape of mountains, offering a panorama that sweeps all the way to the Ionian Sea and the distant Gulf of Taranto. This blend of Apennine drama and Mediterranean light creates a breathtaking backdrop for an authentic Italian escape. As you wander the narrow, welcoming streets, you’ll discover why it’s also known as "The Painted Village," adorned with over 40 stunning murals that narrate its history and traditions. Beyond its architectural charm, the village serves as a gateway for nature lovers, offering a perfect starting point for rewarding mountain excursions to natural gems like Mount Sparviere.

What truly sets Alessandria del Carretto apart is its profound dedication to preserving ancient, evocative rituals and traditions that offer visitors a rare glimpse into Italy's pagan past. The village hosts a spectacular calendar of festivals rooted in the natural cycle of rebirth.

The crown jewel of its cultural calendar is the magnificent Pita Festival (Festa dell'Abete), which is held in May. This ancient arboreal rite is a symbol of vitality and life renewal. The community ventures into the Pollino woods to fell a monumental, 65-foot silver fir tree, which is then triumphantly hauled back to the village by hand, accompanied by the lively music of bagpipes and drums. The ceremony culminates in the climb of the fir tree, a breathtaking Game of Cuccagna, making it one of the most exciting and authentic folk events in the Mediterranean.

Equally captivating is the historic Carnival of Alessandria del Carretto. This mesmerizing celebration features the unique, ritualistic masks of the Połëcënellë Bielle e Brutte (Beautiful and Ugly Pulcinella). These characters dance through the streets in a cathartic performance that stages the eternal struggle between order and disorder, vitality and chaos, a tradition that propitiates the arrival of spring. The procession, which also includes the bear-masked Ursë, immerses visitors in a timeless, mythological world.

For those who visit in the summer, the annual Radicazioni Festival offers a modern platform for folk music, street artists, and culture, keeping the community's roots alive and vibrant. You can also explore local heritage at the Guido Chidichimo Museum or the fascinating Wolf Museum.

From its stunning natural setting to the warmth of its people, who greet every visitor with profound and respectful hospitality, Alessandria del Carretto is more than a beautiful village. It is a journey into the authentic, untamed heart of Calabria, offering unforgettable memories for those seeking peace, tradition, and an escape to a genuinely magical corner of Italy. Come, step back in time, and let this mountain sanctuary captivate your soul.

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