There is no such thing as a national Italian cuisine. Just like in the USA, each Italian region's dishes are based on local resources and residents, tempered by its history marked by settlement of people from other lands who brought their traditions. As we pass the midpoint of the high travel season in Europe, let me suggest that while in Italy you seek out her enchanting trattorias and discover authentic regional cooking.

Trattorias are simpler in menu, décor, formality and service than ristorantes, and many have been owned and operated by the same families for generations, acting as Italy's mamma and papà restaurants. The emphasis is on steady clientele rather than haute cuisine, and the food is unassuming and plentiful. The word "trattoria" originated circa 1859 and is a derivative of the verb trattare (to deal with or attend to) and cognate with the French traiteur (caterer), as some trattorias offer takeout service.

Trattorias can be found in town or country and sometimes adjacent to a family vineyard where tables may be under a rustic trellis adorned with grapevines. The best trattorias, the ones frequented by locals, are often away from the tourist track and hidden in residential neighborhoods and small towns. Some trattorias in larger and touristy cities are beginning to disappear from the landscape because urban areas have been invaded by snack bars and quick lunch counters. This disappointing evolution has resulted in many Italians traveling to the country on weekends in order to partake of trattorias. No matter the locale, the trattoria is a place patronized by young families, seniors on fixed incomes, students, singles, travelers and anyone who simply wants to recapture the aromas and taste of homemade meals.

The majority of trattorias have the domestic look and feel, with homey touches like mismatched napkins, tablecloths and flatware; chipped, white dishes and personal pictures. The interior decoration may be in transition, appointed with paintings, drawings and etchings done by artists in exchange for food, inspiration and free gallery space.

No culture better understands simplicity and the art of culinary understatement like the Italians, and trattoria dishes provide edible affirmation. Local agriculture plays a major role in the recipes, ensuring a fresh supply of area produce, meat and fish for cooking. Trattoria cuisine at times reflects the passion, creativity and moods of the cooks, usually the women of the family, and is characterized by their personal touches and interpretations, which is why you may not see printed menus. Daily menus are often handwritten on paper or a blackboard or simply recited.

Servers take your orders one course at a time, so be prepared for a dinner lasting two or three hours. The portions are rarely huge and you can add courses until you say basta (enough). You can even mix it up and order two pastas in succession. The routine serving sequence is antipasto, soup, pasta or rice, meat or fish with vegetables, salad, fruit or dessert. Espresso and liqueurs such as limoncello, anisetta, grappa or sambuca provide the conclusion to your robust feast. The proprietor and family almost always weave through the dining room to greet and chat with patrons and friends.

Forgive me for holding the main event until paragraph seven, but here is a sampling of what you can expect in trattoria offerings. For starters, how does Bread with Spinach, Goat Cheese and Garlic Spread or Onion and Bread Soup sound? You could follow with Rigatoni with Tomatoes, Pesto and Ricotta; Lasagne with Basil, Garlic and Tomato Sauce; Penne with Vodka and Spicy Tomato-Cream Sauce or Risotto with Smoked Mozzarella. Your main course and vegetables might be Pan Roasted Chicken with Eggplant and Zucchini; Baked Fish with Tomatoes and Onions; Lamb Braised in White Wine, Garlic and Hot Peppers; Peas with Fried Pancetta or String Beans with Anchovies and Garlic. If you have room, you can end the feast on a sweet note with Crustless Ricotta Cheesecake with Pine Nuts and Raisins, Lake Garda Apple Cake, Orange and Lemon Cake, Golden Lemon-Rice Cake or Hazelnut and Orange Biscotti. I would recommend that you park your diet at home!

You can complement your meal with vini della casa that are chiefly made at nearby vineyards or by the proprietor's family. The wines are largely satisfying to everyday patrons who do not consider themselves connoisseurs. House wines are served in carafes and poured into juice glasses while bottled wines from the list are accompanied by stemware.

Italians tend to dress up for dinner unless they are going to a pizzeria. Many trattorias do not accept reservations and generally do not open until 7:30 because dinnertime is customarily between 8:00 and midnight. You can skip tipping if servizio incluso or servizio compreso is shown on the menu or door. Tipping is preferred in Euros or American dollars, and some trattorias do not accept credit cards.

The Slow Food movement (anti fast food) based in northern Italy has praised the unique position of trattorias in Italian regional life and awarded symbols of excellence. Trattorias are the heart of Italian dining spots, places where you are assured of flavorful, traditional and reasonably priced meals, all served in a welcoming, family atmosphere. The best part is no one trattoria is exactly like another and each has a definite personality. You will feel that dining in a trattoria is like eating with an Italian family. Buon appetito alle trattorie!