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Though Italians profess "One for all and all for one,"
the cultural identity roams from region to region as does its dialects,
cuisines, architecture and craftsmanship. There is an even larger
division between the richer north and the poorer south of Italy.
The divide between the "two Italies" has much to do with
the different cuisine that seems to have an affinity with the Eastern
Mediterranean, Arab states and North Africa. The bounty of the soil
has made food one of the constants. Much time is spent preparing
and eating it, placing the Italian diet among the healthiest in
the world.
There is no more versatile, better-loved foods in the universe
than pasta. Though it may have originated in the Orient, no food
is more Italian and the names and shapes vary region to region.
Fettucine in Rome is called tagliatelle in Bologna. Fusilli in most
of Italy is named something else in Apulia. Getting past the distinctive
pasta names and preparations, the delectable sweets of Italy including
the kingmakers, cannoli and sfogliatelle, are not a regular part
of the daily meal and Italian diet. They gain in importance the
further south one goes. Sicilian desserts are reputed to be among
the best and richest, but in most other parts, fresh fruit in season
is by far the favorite.
However, when the special occasion and the celebration is just
right in the different regions of Italy, assorted pastries are sure
to make the family table.
While the regular offerings in northeastern Italy include spaghetti
alle Vongole (spaghetti with fresh clams in a chili pepper sauce),
Tiramisu, Italy's most famous dessert, is a prepared rich and soft
blend of espresso-soaked sponge cake or ladyfingers and mascarpone
dessert cheese. Originally created in Siena (Tuscany) for Grand
Duke Cosimo de'Medici III and named zuppa del duca (the duke's soup),
it made its way to Florence and then England where it became very
popular. Eventually, zuppa del duca made its way to Treviso (Veneto),
where Tiramisu was perfected. This delicious dessert (whose literal
translation means "pick me up") can now be found in Italian
restaurants all over the world and has even gained popularity in
recent years.
Venice, also located in the Veneto region, is credited with giving
the world Amaretti, macaroon-type cookies made from ground almonds
or almond paste, sugar and egg whites, during the Renaissance. Amaratti
are diverse and can be served with ice cream, dessert wine or liqueur,
and can also be sandwiched together with ganache, buttercream or
jam for an extra special treat.
Another Venetian dessert is Zabaglione. Made with egg yolks, sugar
and Marsala wine or other sweet liquor, zabaglione is a custard
traditionally served, hot or cold, with fresh figs or ladyfingers.
Originated in Venice when the city ruled the Adriatic, zabaglione
was originally made with honey instead of sugar and Cyprus wine
instead of Marsala.
Milan is known for contributing both panettone, the traditional
Christmas cake, and Colomba Pasquale ("Easter Dove" in
English), panettone's Easter counterpart.
Siena (Tuscany) is credited with introducing the dark, fruitcake-like
dessert spiced with cinnamon and cloves known as panforte. Panforte
("strong bread"), which often contains fruits and nuts,
can be served with dessert wine or even enjoyed with tea or coffee
at breakfast. It got its name due to its strong, spicy flavor and
was once used as payment to nuns and monks by inhabitants of the
monastery of Montecellesi as a form of tax.
Biscotti were first created in Tuscany many centuries ago. While
the word "biscotti" in Italian generally means "cookie"
or "biscuit," the biscotti we are talking about here are
the long, crispy twice-baked cookies that go so well dunked in coffee
(and some varieties even in wine) and can be found in coffee shops
and bakeries pretty much anywhere. Across Italy are dozens of varieties
of the long and dry biscotti baked with almonds and other nuts.
Traditionally made with almonds, today biscotti can be found in
a myriad of different flavors, made with various nuts and even dipped
in chocolate!
Other Tuscan desserts include torta di riso, a rice cake served
with a fruit sauce and seasonal fruit, cantucci, a sweet biscuit
served with a Tuscan dessert wine, brigidini, anise-flavored cookies,
and a raisin cake called buccellato.
Rome's contribution to the sweet tooth is the torta di ricotta,
a cheesecake filled with ricotta, Marsala and lemon. The Eternal
City is also known for gelato, cream puffs called bignè,
sponge cake dipped in sweet liqueur and layered with whipped cream,
candied fruit and chopped chocolate known as zuppa inglese, sweet
raisin buns called maritozzi and rum-soaked fruit and nut cake called
pan giallo. Dessert is usually topped off with anise-flavored sambuca.
Naples boasts such fare as "real" pizza, delicious calzones
and the freshest mozzarella di bufala. However, Neapolitan desserts
are just as mouthwatering. Sfogliatelle are crispy, flakey shell-shaped
pastries filled with a creamy filling usually made of ricotta or
even almond paste. Struffoli, usually reserved for the Christmas
season, are bite-sized pieces of fried dough drenched in honey and
decorated with multi-colored sprinkles. And last but certainly not
least, the Neapolitans have zeppole, friend donut-like rings dusted
in sugar and traditionally served during St. Joseph's Day (la festa
di San Giuseppe) in mid-March. Zeppole can also come in the form
of deep-fried dough balls and may be filled with a variety of fillings
such as custard or a cannoli-style pastry cream.
Speaking of cannoli, Sicily is arguably the "granddaddy of
dessert destinations" with other contributions like cassata,
nougat and marzipan. Cannoli originated in Palermo where they were
a regular part of Carnevale. The cream-filled tube-shaped fried
pastry dough shells are an essential part of Sicilian culture. As
is cassata, a pound cake moistened with liqueur and layered with
filling similar to cannoli cream. Torrone is a nougat candy made
of honey, egg whites, vanilla and almonds. While it is popularly
associated with Sicily, its history is actually based in ancient
Rome.
With all of these mouthwatering desserts, is it any wonder that
Italians have perfected la dolce vita?
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