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By Peter D'Attoma
Rich in history, glamour and beauty, Capri is also the perfect
size for two days of exploring this gem of an island. If there is
a place immersed in the blue heart of the Mediterranean Sea where
myth meets history and the natural beauty is nothing less than astounding,
well then, you must go to Capri. "There is no spot in the world
with such delightful possibilities of repose as this little isle,"
eulogized Charles Dickens.
The island does not have an airport, which means that Capri can
only be reached by boat or helicopter. One of the best ways to get
to Capri is to first travel to Naples; then take a short ferry or
private transfer to the island.
Capri is perfectly sized for two days of exploring and is divided
into four distinct areas: the town of Capri, Marine Grande, Marina
Piccolo and Anacapri.
Over 8,000 people live in the town of Capri, the central, more
conspicuously touristy and wealthy area, while a further 7,000 live
in Anacapri, which is much quieter and more typical of the Caprese
people.
Capri is served by the Marine Grande on the eastern side, where
you will find a fabulous assortment of private yachts dominating
the berths and where ferries and hydrofoils dock; and Marina Piccola
on the southern side, with its beach and restaurants.
Getting around Capri is easy, particularly if you make good use
of all the island's modes of transport -- boats, buses and the funicular
railway. The funiculare, which runs from the Marina Grande (where
visitors first arrive) to central Capri takes only a couple of minutes
to reach and is a wonderful way to travel. In addition you can take
one of the orange buses that continuously travel between the marinas,
Capri and Anacapri, and best of all there is never a long wait for
another, should one be full.
The best place to people-watch is in the piazetta, also known
as the Piazza Umberto I. This square, which sits in the center of
Capri above the Marina Grande, is the focus of a labyrinth of cobbled
streets. The piazetta has also been described as the "drawing
room of the world," and is a magnet for writers, actors, artists,
politicians and the international jet-set community. Here you will
also find some of the finest designer boutiques including Gucci,
Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace.
There is a collection of first-class hotels such as the historic
Hotel Quisisana, the new Marriot Tiberio Palace and Hotel Gatto
Bianco, a lovely three-star hotel built in the 1950s. In its early
years, Hotel Gatto Bianco's restaurant was a meeting place for the
island's rich and famous. La Scalinatella, a beautiful five-star
luxury hotel, is located in a panoramic and peaceful area of Capri.
With whitewashed walls, lemon trees and stunning architecture, the
hotel also has plenty of amenities including a garden, tennis court
and a swimming pool.
Capri is a wonderful island to walk and marvel at its charming
alleys and streets with flowers everywhere. A good walk is down
the Via Krupp, a winding road cut into the rock in the early 1900s.
This road is described as one of the most panoramic roads in the
world. It leads to the relative tranquility of Marina Piccola on
the western side of Capri. Not far from here is the most fragrant
part of the island, Carthusia, the smallest perfume factory in the
world.
If you want to experience Capri beyond the tourists, it's best
to stay in Anacapri. Most of the people who live and work in Capri
have their homes here. It was here that the Swedish writer and doctor
Alex Munthe chose to build the Villa San Michele, an imposing residence
built on the ruins of an ancient Roman Villa. The gardens here are
stunning and are worth a visit, with breathtaking views of the island.
Two other must-sees are the artistic delights of Casa Rossa and
the Chiesa di San Michele.
Anacapri is also home to the chairlift, which transports visitors
on a ten-minute ride from the Piazza Vittoria to the Monte Solaro,
the highest point on the island at 589 meters. At the top there
is a café and spectacular views across the island and to
mainland Italy. To descend, either take the chairlift and enjoy
a serene downward drift into Anacapri, or if you feel energetic
try the 50-minute walk passing Santa Maria, a monastery created
by fourteenth century Carthusian monks.
The perfect day out on the sea is on a boat excursion, on a chartered
yacht or a larger tourist boat. By boat you can explore its rugged
coastline, anchor for a swim in its blue seas, or simply stop to
enjoy its beaches or restaurants.
No visit to Capri is complete without a visit to the famous Blue
Grotto (Grotta Azzura). You can visit this well-known grotto by
a boat excursion, by bus, or on foot. Entrance to the grotto is
gained through a tiny gap in the cliff face and outside the bay
is filled with many small rowing boats waiting to enter, manned
by Capri's expert oarsmen. Once you enter, the cavern opens out
into magnificent space where the refracted light turns the water
into an intensely rich cobalt blue. The grotto is open every day,
weather permitting, from 9 A.M. to one hour before sunset.
Getting to Capri: The easiest and most convenient way to
reach Capri is by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples, either from the
port of Mergellina or Molo Beverello. The ferry takes about one
hour and a half and costs around five euros. The hydrofoil takes
half the time and costs about 15 euros. If you're staying in Sorrento,
you can take the ferry departing often throughout the day from the
Marine Grande and it takes about 40 minutes and costs about 7 euros.
So, if you want to visit Capri, simply to experience its natural
beauty and to experience the high life, why not make like the famous,
artistic and glamorous? Take a seat among the many people who sit
in the piazzetta, sip a glass of chilled wine, enjoy a gelato, relax
and just watch the world drift by.
My favorite restaurants in Capri:
Il Tinello - Via L'abate, 3. Phone: +39 081 8377673
CasaNova - Via Le Botteghe, 46. Phone: +39 081 8377642
La Capannina - Via Le Botteghe, 12B-14. Phone: +39 081 -8370732
La Pigna - Via Lo Palazzo, 30. Phone: +39 081 8370280
Anacapri:
La Rondinella - Via Orlandi, 295. Phone: +39 081 8371223
What to see:
1. Marine Grande
2. Villa Jovis
3. Arco Naturale
4. Carthusia
5. Blue Grotto
6. Chiesa San Michele (Anacapri)
7. Via Krupp & I Faraglioni
8. Casa Rossa (Anacapri)
9. Monte Solaro (Anacapri)
10. Marina Piccola
Beaches:
Bagni Tiberio, Palazzo a Mare, Da Luigi, Faraglioni at 14E or Da
Gioia, Marina Piccola at 10E.
Peter D'Attoma is president of DaVinci
Custom Travel & Tours. He has over 25 years of planning
and designing independent, custom and escorted tours of Italy for
individuals, groups and incentive. For more information, email Peter
D'Attoma at peter@davincicustomtravel.com
or call him at 330-633-2292.
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