It's Enchanged Capri for La Dolce Vita
By Peter D'Attoma

Rich in history, glamour and beauty, Capri is also the perfect size for two days of exploring this gem of an island. If there is a place immersed in the blue heart of the Mediterranean Sea where myth meets history and the natural beauty is nothing less than astounding, well then, you must go to Capri. "There is no spot in the world with such delightful possibilities of repose as this little isle," eulogized Charles Dickens.

The island does not have an airport, which means that Capri can only be reached by boat or helicopter. One of the best ways to get to Capri is to first travel to Naples; then take a short ferry or private transfer to the island.

Capri is perfectly sized for two days of exploring and is divided into four distinct areas: the town of Capri, Marine Grande, Marina Piccolo and Anacapri.

Over 8,000 people live in the town of Capri, the central, more conspicuously touristy and wealthy area, while a further 7,000 live in Anacapri, which is much quieter and more typical of the Caprese people.

Capri is served by the Marine Grande on the eastern side, where you will find a fabulous assortment of private yachts dominating the berths and where ferries and hydrofoils dock; and Marina Piccola on the southern side, with its beach and restaurants.

Getting around Capri is easy, particularly if you make good use of all the island's modes of transport -- boats, buses and the funicular railway. The funiculare, which runs from the Marina Grande (where visitors first arrive) to central Capri takes only a couple of minutes to reach and is a wonderful way to travel. In addition you can take one of the orange buses that continuously travel between the marinas, Capri and Anacapri, and best of all there is never a long wait for another, should one be full.

The best place to people-watch is in the piazetta, also known as the Piazza Umberto I. This square, which sits in the center of Capri above the Marina Grande, is the focus of a labyrinth of cobbled streets. The piazetta has also been described as the "drawing room of the world," and is a magnet for writers, actors, artists, politicians and the international jet-set community. Here you will also find some of the finest designer boutiques including Gucci, Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace.

There is a collection of first-class hotels such as the historic Hotel Quisisana, the new Marriot Tiberio Palace and Hotel Gatto Bianco, a lovely three-star hotel built in the 1950s. In its early years, Hotel Gatto Bianco's restaurant was a meeting place for the island's rich and famous. La Scalinatella, a beautiful five-star luxury hotel, is located in a panoramic and peaceful area of Capri. With whitewashed walls, lemon trees and stunning architecture, the hotel also has plenty of amenities including a garden, tennis court and a swimming pool.

Capri is a wonderful island to walk and marvel at its charming alleys and streets with flowers everywhere. A good walk is down the Via Krupp, a winding road cut into the rock in the early 1900s. This road is described as one of the most panoramic roads in the world. It leads to the relative tranquility of Marina Piccola on the western side of Capri. Not far from here is the most fragrant part of the island, Carthusia, the smallest perfume factory in the world.

If you want to experience Capri beyond the tourists, it's best to stay in Anacapri. Most of the people who live and work in Capri have their homes here. It was here that the Swedish writer and doctor Alex Munthe chose to build the Villa San Michele, an imposing residence built on the ruins of an ancient Roman Villa. The gardens here are stunning and are worth a visit, with breathtaking views of the island. Two other must-sees are the artistic delights of Casa Rossa and the Chiesa di San Michele.

Anacapri is also home to the chairlift, which transports visitors on a ten-minute ride from the Piazza Vittoria to the Monte Solaro, the highest point on the island at 589 meters. At the top there is a café and spectacular views across the island and to mainland Italy. To descend, either take the chairlift and enjoy a serene downward drift into Anacapri, or if you feel energetic try the 50-minute walk passing Santa Maria, a monastery created by fourteenth century Carthusian monks.

The perfect day out on the sea is on a boat excursion, on a chartered yacht or a larger tourist boat. By boat you can explore its rugged coastline, anchor for a swim in its blue seas, or simply stop to enjoy its beaches or restaurants.

No visit to Capri is complete without a visit to the famous Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzura). You can visit this well-known grotto by a boat excursion, by bus, or on foot. Entrance to the grotto is gained through a tiny gap in the cliff face and outside the bay is filled with many small rowing boats waiting to enter, manned by Capri's expert oarsmen. Once you enter, the cavern opens out into magnificent space where the refracted light turns the water into an intensely rich cobalt blue. The grotto is open every day, weather permitting, from 9 A.M. to one hour before sunset.

Getting to Capri: The easiest and most convenient way to reach Capri is by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples, either from the port of Mergellina or Molo Beverello. The ferry takes about one hour and a half and costs around five euros. The hydrofoil takes half the time and costs about 15 euros. If you're staying in Sorrento, you can take the ferry departing often throughout the day from the Marine Grande and it takes about 40 minutes and costs about 7 euros.

So, if you want to visit Capri, simply to experience its natural beauty and to experience the high life, why not make like the famous, artistic and glamorous? Take a seat among the many people who sit in the piazzetta, sip a glass of chilled wine, enjoy a gelato, relax and just watch the world drift by.

My favorite restaurants in Capri:
Il Tinello - Via L'abate, 3. Phone: +39 081 8377673
CasaNova - Via Le Botteghe, 46. Phone: +39 081 8377642
La Capannina - Via Le Botteghe, 12B-14. Phone: +39 081 -8370732
La Pigna - Via Lo Palazzo, 30. Phone: +39 081 8370280

Anacapri:
La Rondinella - Via Orlandi, 295. Phone: +39 081 8371223

What to see:
1. Marine Grande
2. Villa Jovis
3. Arco Naturale
4. Carthusia
5. Blue Grotto
6. Chiesa San Michele (Anacapri)
7. Via Krupp & I Faraglioni
8. Casa Rossa (Anacapri)
9. Monte Solaro (Anacapri)
10. Marina Piccola

Beaches:
Bagni Tiberio, Palazzo a Mare, Da Luigi, Faraglioni at 14E or Da Gioia, Marina Piccola at 10E.

Peter D'Attoma is president of DaVinci Custom Travel & Tours. He has over 25 years of planning and designing independent, custom and escorted tours of Italy for individuals, groups and incentive. For more information, email Peter D'Attoma at peter@davincicustomtravel.com or call him at 330-633-2292.